The Fabulous Thessaloniki

The most exciting, diverse and downright beautiful city in the whole of Greece is Thessaloniki

You're not going to find too many ancient ruins or breathtaking beaches in Thessaloniki. At first glance, it may even seem a bit ugly, with many streets covered in graffiti, but give it time, and the life and energy of the city quickly gets under your skin.

Two important things to know:

1. Thessaloniki is said to have the most bars per capita of any city in Europe.
2. Thanks to its huge university, it has one of the youngest populations in Greece.

This gives the city a real buzz — even during the surprisingly cold winters, when everyone heads down to their warm neighbourhood café.

The promenade

Over 4km long, starting at the White Tower and running all along to the Concert Hall. Practically deserted during the day in summer, but it comes alive at night with old and young heading out for their evening's volta — a religion among the city's residents.

What to do

• Walk the Ano Poli (Upper Town) at sunset — Byzantine walls, tiny tavernas, panoramic views over the gulf.
• Eat at Modiano Market and the Kapani food market — bouyourdi, gemista, sardeles pastes.
• Try Bougatsa Bantis in the morning — flaky pastry with cream, cheese or spinach.
• Drink local wines and tsipouro in Ladadika, the old olive-oil district turned bar quarter.
• Visit the Rotunda, Arch of Galerius and the Byzantine museums for the historical fix.

Thessaloniki rewards travellers who give it time — most who do, prefer it to Athens.